Wine Enthusiast Magazine, December 2023
The historic Old Redwood Highway (now Highway 101) takes you straight north out of San Francisco into Sonoma County wine country—a mostly rural expanse of 19 wine appellations with over 400 wineries dotting its hills and valleys. Bordered on the east by the Mayacamas Mountain Range and on the west by the dramatic Pacific Coastline, this gorgeous slice of California produces some of the world’s finest wine.
With so many enticing winery options, visitors might feel overwhelmed by choice. That’s why we went to the experts. We asked some in-the-know locals which wineries they love to visit right now. Here, we present some of their favorites and our recommendations for places to stay and eat nearby.
WINERIES
This six-generation, family-run winery has become a local favorite due to its exquisite wines and Sonoma County cred. Robert Young, the founder, was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, transforming the family’s prune ranch into a vineyard estate. Forbes listed it as one of the Three Healdsburg Wineries You Must Visit. “Robert Young arguably has some of the best views, and every wine scores over 90 points,” said Tallia Hart, CEO of the Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce. “It’s elegant, beautiful, and charming at the same time. It is a gem in our area. It’s rare to find one location with almost every varietal made impeccably.”
Where to Eat: Cyrus
There were many disappointed foodies when Cyrus moved out of Healdsburg years ago. But now, the Michelin-star restaurant is back in a new location: Geyserville, just eight miles away. Cyrus offers an uber-gourmet, 15-course dinner event that The New York Times wrote: “wows with a whisper.” The restaurant opens four times per week, with four seatings per night and 12 diners per seating.
Where to Stay: Newtree Ranch.
If you’re looking for luxury wellness tourism, you’ll find it in spades at this idyllic oasis outside Healdsburg. It’s secluded, silent (unless you count the sounds of mini-horses and goats), and posh. But that’s far from all; it also offers “seed-to-table” meals, in-room massages, and a maximum occupancy of 12 divided between two private villas. It has been recognized as one of the 10 Luxury Experiences for Eliminating Negativity in the New Year by Departures Magazine.
“This little gem is known to many locals as a place to escape, let go, and remember why we all live here. Not to be missed if you enjoy sparking and Pinot,” advised Molly Feeney-Kochevar, Head Concierge of SingleThread and Co-Owner of Ullage Wines.
With an Old West feel thanks to its redwood structures, split-rail fences surrounding the property, and the occasional haystack, you might not initially think “bubbles” on arrival. But don’t be fooled by the rustic setting; Iron Horse is known for their sparkling wines made using the Méthode Champenoise. They offer many effervescent options, including Blanc de Noirs and a Wedding Cuvee, set off beautifully by their hilltop views of Mount St. Helena and acres of grapevines. It was voted one of the Best Wineries to Visit in the Bay Area by the San Francisco Chronicle in 2023.
Where to Eat: Fern Bar
Besides having one of the most fabulous interiors around (ferns!), Fern Bar gives a respite to the wine lover with its extensive list of “garden-to-glass” and vintage concoctions. Vieux Carré and Bee’s Knees cocktails from the 1920s and 30s set the scene for innovative and classic cuisine like Spam and Eggs with Kimchi and Croque Madame. Fern Bar is in The Barlow, Sebastopol’s popular shopping and dining destination.
Where to Stay: Farmhouse Inn
Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn boasts 52 rustic chic bungalows, rooms, suites, a Michelin-star restaurant, a Wellness Barn, and vineyards all around. Conde Nast Traveler named it the #5 Top Hotel in North America in 2020, writing that the resort “epitomizes the character of Sonoma wine country with its laid-back, cheery service and fragrant overgrown gardens.” In 2023, Travel + Leisure added Farmhouse to its Readers’ 15 Favorite U.S. Resorts of 2023.
Husband and wife team Noah and Kelly Dorrance started Dry Creek Valley’s Reeve in 2016. Noah had co-founded the wildly successful Banshee Wines in 2008, and like Banshee, Reeve (named for their son) has proven to be a smashing success. Its small production, elegant wines,and modern rustic ambiance create an inviting, laidback environment to sip, and visitors can’t stop praising Reeve’s three Rieslings, each from a different vineyard in Anderson Valley near the Pacific Ocean. You may want to taste the 2018 Wendling Vineyard North Slope Pinot Noir—Wine Enthusiast gave it a 96-point score. “It is such a cool winery, and I love taking my friends and family there, especially for the pizza nights,” said Circe Sher, co-founder of Sonoma County’s Piazza Hospitality.
Where to Eat: Guiso Latin Fusion
Chef/Owner Carlos Mojica credits his mother Margarita as his inspiration to become a chef, and his Latin fusion restaurant in downtown Healdsburg does her justice with its Caribbean and South and Central American cuisine, Latin culture, and local Sonoma County products. With choices like Caribbean-style paella and pupusas (corn tortillas filled with vegetables or pork and cheese), it’s no wonder Fodor’s Travel gave it Fodor’s Choice.
Where to Stay: Reeve Villa and Farmstay
Extend your wine-tasting experience by spending a night at the on-site villa designed by the Dorrances. This luxury four-bedroom villa is situated amidst a rustic vineyard environment just outside Healdsburg. To add an authentic Sonoma County experience, a farm-stay element can be added, which includes feeding animals and harvesting chicken eggs.
Repris delivers an unforgettable tasting experience—its Moon Mountain Experience ($100 per person) includes a guided ATV tour to the top of Moon Mountain to sip vino under the shade trees and a stroll through the vineyards with a glass in hand. Then, you will explore some of California’s oldest wine caves and end the experience with a flight of Repris wine and small bites from an overflowing charcuterie board. “Moon Mountain is beautiful, and they have a fantastic cave tour. Their winemaker, Erich Bradley, crafts wines that uphold a tradition dating back to the 1880s, when Cabernet Sauvignon was first planted on the Mountain,” Tallia Hart raved. Repris has a five-star rating on Trip Advisor, with one reviewer writing, “Repris should be the first wine tour you book!”
Where to Eat: Folktable
This Sonoma eatery received a Michelin Bib Gourmand for 2021-2023, thanks to Executive Chef Casey Thompson, former Top Chef contestant and local rockstar of micro-seasonal, “farm-to-fork” cooking. Folktable is located in Cornerstone Sonoma, an outdoor marketplace of art galleries, antique shops, and tasting rooms near the town of Sonoma. It has gained popularity for its fresh, locally grown, and inventive combinations like Greek Panzanella and Tuscan Bread Soup. It’s no surprise that Sonoma Magazine has included it in its list of Best Sonoma County Restaurants Under $40,
Where to Stay: MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa
The 64-room hotel is close to Sonoma Plaza and has been a local favorite for over 125 years. Originally a family estate, it has recently undergone a multimillion-dollar renovation and is now known for its modern yet classic wine country charm. The Bar at The MacArthur is a beautiful space adorned with rich jewel tones and modern brass. Locals often recommend it for a late-night cocktail. Also, guests are in for a treat with the warm chocolate chip cookies provided in the turndown service.
Domaine de la Riviere is a family-owned and operated winery in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County. Although it’s still relatively unknown (its first vintage was released in 2020), it has gained attention for producing top-quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Rosé. The winemaker, Kale Anderson, is a Sonoma County native who has been instrumental in the winery’s success, and the winery has won several accolades, including three Double Gold Awards in the 2023 San Francisco Wine Competition for their 2019 Next Door Chardonnay, 2019 Two Forces Pinot Noir, and 2019 Middle Reach Vineyards Pinot Noir. The San Francisco Wine Competition is the largest competition for North American wines, which speaks volumes about the winery’s quality.
Paul Coker, Director of Beverage at Montage Healdsburg, raved about the wine and winery. “As we were getting in the car, after our first visit … my wife turned to me and said, “Well, that sure over-delivered! Having been back twice since that day, the trend continues. They blend the experience of tasting their wines with an outpouring of graciousness and hospitality, reminiscent of old-world tastings in family homes.”
Where to Eat: Barndiva
Earning a Michelin star for the past three years, Barndiva restaurant in Healdsburg offers a prix-fixe dinner menu from Wednesday to Sunday and a popular weekend brunch. Its farm-to-table, seasonal concept of modern country cuisine means menu items like Black Cod with caramelized salsify, clams and matsutake, and Reuben Benedict for brunch. The garden setting is an idyll; the Michelin Guide shared, “Even for scenic Healdsburg, Barndiva is eye-catching.”
Where to Stay: Montage Healdsburg
Offering 130 bungalows (some designed like treehouses) and suites immersed in the trees and vineyards of Alexander Valley, Montage has been a super hit since its opening in 2020. It was #2 in Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards for Top 20 Hotels in Northern California. Esquire named it one of the Best New Hotels in North America and the Caribbean in 2022, writing that “you might find it hard to leave the property.”
“Vérité’s extraordinary reds and wonderful hospitality are two reasons I continue sending guests their way. They never fall short or disappoint,”saysMolly Feeney-Kochevar. Vérité’s French Vigneron Pierre Seillan uses a micro-cru approach to winemaking, which led him to plant grapes in the Alexander Valley, Bennett Valley, Knights Valley, and Chalk Hill AVAs. This allowed him to select fruit grown in 30 soil types to craft his Bordeaux-inspired blends. Today, he works alongside his daughter, Hélène, who is now the assistant winemaker. Having received multiple 100-point scores (17 at last count), the father-daughter team recently unveiled a new state-of-the-art winery and chateau tasting room in Chalk Hill.
Where to Eat: Valette
Brothers Dustin Valette and Aaron Garzini started this highly lauded eatery in 2015 in the Healdsburg building that once housed their great-grandfather’s bakery. It quickly became a hit for locals and critics alike, praising its elevated, innovative take on homey dishes like Dayboat Scallops en Croute with leeks, fennel, caviar and rich champagne beurre blanc. Wine Spectator listed it as one of 16 world-class restaurants in Napa and Sonoma County Wine Country and gave Valette an Award of Excellence.
Where to Stay: The Madrona Hotel. The historic and iconic Madrona, a 24-room, 1881 estate outside of Healdsburg, reopened in 2022, this time with a glamorous, eclectic, and vintage vibe. One year later, it made Travel + Leisure’s lists of the Best New Hotels and the Readers’ Favorite Hotels in the World. The acclaimed bar and restaurant are local attractions, making this boutique hotel stay complete.
When asked which Sonoma County wineries were her favorites right now, Alexis Kandanes, General Manager of Bricoleur Vineyards in Windsor, said, “Of course, Bricoleur is my favorite, but the cave tour at B. Wise is something you don’t want to miss. It’s truly a surprising and delightful experience.” She’s not alone; B.Wise was named Best Wine Cave by Tasting Table, which described it as “one of wine country’s most unique, inviting spaces.” Located in the Moon Mountain District, the winery’s extensive system of caves allows for intimate tasting spaces in its multiple alcoves. There is also a tasting room in Kenwood.
Where to Eat: Salt & Stone
Located on the Sonoma Highway in Kenwood, Salt & Stone was voted Sonoma Valley’s People’s Choice for Best Seafood Restaurant in 2023. But the restaurant offers much more than seafood. You’ll find Spanish Octopus, Oysters on the half-shell, Truffle Mac and Cheese, and Steak Tartare on the menu.
Where to Stay: Hotel Les Mars
This hotel is a part of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux group and features French chateau-style design and romantic, antique furnishings dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. With just 16 rooms, this boutique hotel offers a daily complimentary wine tasting in the lobby, just one of the perks that made this one of the Eight Sonoma County Hotels That Define Luxury, according to Sonoma Magazine.
The Donum Estate is a local favorite for its unique combination of world-class wine and art. Visitors can enjoy a guided wine-tasting experience in the estate’s floor-to-ceiling glass tasting room, where they sample Donum’s highly acclaimed Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (Wine Enthusiast awarded 95 points and Cellar Selection to their 2019 Estate Pinot Noir) or try a food pairing while taking in the stunning view. In addition to the wine, visitors can also explore their art collection and view dozens of magnificent large-scale, open-air sculptures by artists such as Ai Weiwei, Yayoi Kusama, Keith Haring, and Yue Minjun, whose “Contemporary Terra Cotta Warriors” display is always a hit. “Put this at the top of your list if you want a mind-blowing experience. The property, the art, the wines, and the hospitality speak for themselves,” said Molly Feeney-Kochevar.
Where to Eat: Santé Restaurant
Located in the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn, Sante offers delicacies such as Koji Marinated Quail, Mishima Reserve Wagyu Chateaubriand in Poblano Béarnaise, and Tsar Nicoulai Caviar & Crisps. Chef Jared Reeves uses local and sustainable produce, focusing on Sonoma County flavors. Where to Stay: Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa
Conde Nast Traveler’s Reader’s Choice listed the historic five-star Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn as #1 in its Top 20 Hotels in Northern California in 2023. It offers access to championship golf at the nearby Sonoma Golf Club, geothermal mineral pools, and farm-to-table dining, making it one of the top lodging choices in the region. Its beautiful Willow Stream Spa is consistently rated among the top hotel spas in California.
The cozy, welcoming Lambert Bridge Winery is just past the Lambert Bridge in Dry Creek Valley. In a nod to its rustic elegance, the winery offers an elevated version of the picnic basket for guests to enjoy at picnic tables throughout their verdant gardens. Those same gardens hold court for non-stop events throughout the year, including monthly summer “sundowners,” lively sunset happy hours serving wood-fired pizzas. Tallia Hart said, “It’s got a great vibe with high-end wine that doesn’t feel stodgy but can definitely rival our Napa neighbor. Aesthetically pleasing to the eye, a warm environment and friendly staff make it a top spot for me.” The San Francisco Chronicle called Lambert Bridge “a storybook wine tasting in Healdsburg.”
Where to Eat: Little Saint’s Second Story
“Little Saint’s elevated dining concept, Second Story, is a personal favorite. It’s interesting to see what can be done with a vegan menu; the entrees are delicious and beautifully presented, and the wine pairings are thoughtful and unique.” Circe Sher
Where to Stay: Hotel Healdsburg
Sonoma Magazine called it “a jolt of the hip and haute-moderne in downtown Healdsburg.” It is right off the historic Healdsburg Square, steps away from Michelin-star restaurants, open-door fine wine tasting rooms, art galleries, and eclectic boutique shopping. Healdsburg was voted America’s Best Small Town by Fodor’s Travel Intelligence.
RECOMMENDED TASTING ROOMS
Many wineries have in-town tasting rooms in Sonoma and Healdsburg, which make it convenient for visitors to sample their wines. Some winemakers without wineries use tasting rooms as their primary way to reach guests. Either way, tasting rooms offer wine lovers a less formal, more wine-focused experience, and our experts shared their favorites.
“Tim and Jane are rockstars and have a fun downtown tasting room. They take a “Cal-Ital” approach where they celebrate a California lifestyle with an Italian influence to honor their families and the original origin of their varietals. They collaborate with other Healdsburg locals for fun pop-ups and have one of the best charcuterie boards in town!” Tallia Hart
“Whenever we walk into Bloodroot near the Healdsburg Square, I can see the eyes of their Tasting Room Manager, Jess, light up. Not only are the wines whimsical and delicious but there is always something fun being released. The vibe is cool and relaxed, and we’re always sure to run into friends with the same idea of relaxing with great wine and great music.” Paul Coker
“I have loved the wines at Lioco for many years and really appreciate that they keep lesser-known varieties alive and thriving. Gruner Veltliner, Carignan, and Valdiguie are just some of the wines that fill out their diverse portfolio, in addition to the beautifully expressive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that really tell a story with a sense of place. It’s not uncommon to find proprietors Matt and Sara in the Healdsburg tasting room, playing records that match the vibrancy of the wines and creating an infectiously fun atmosphere where you can truly lose track of time.” Alexis Kandanes
“When I think of local gems, Leo Steen Wines immediately comes to mind. Leo is now crafting some of the most creative and delicious wines around; as one of the few California producers to specialize in the grape, his Chenin Blanc wines are particular standouts. It’s especially fitting since [the label’s] last name, Steen, is a synonym for Chenin Blanc in South Africa.” Circe Sher
